Garage Door Cable Replacement: what to note first

Your older door has springs along the tracks, and one cable has slipped off its pulley and dangles slack. The door lifts crooked and needs a shoulder to close, when it used to glide.

Worth answering before the call

Can you see a cable hanging loose, frayed, or wound around the shaft? Did the door come down on something, or did a vehicle touch it? Does the opener still run, and does it strain or reverse?

What information helps when I call?

Whether the door is sitting crooked, jammed partway or on the floor; whether you can see a cable hanging loose, frayed or wrapped around the shaft; whether there is a spring above the door or springs along the tracks; the door's rough height and whether it is a single or double; and what happened just before, such as the door coming down on something. A photo of the drum end and the bottom corner is useful.

Do I need new cables when the springs are replaced?

Often it is sensible. Cables and springs are similar in age, and with the counterbalance already unloaded the extra work of fitting new cables is small. The technician inspects them and advises: cables with bright, tight strands and clean loops can stay and simply be re-tensioned, while cables with any fraying or rust at the bottom are better renewed now than in a separate visit later.